Garden Glory in Italy and Alice's Garden

Vignettes from my forays in Venice & the Veneto...

 Villa Barbaro Nymphaeum: a glassy pool and the sculptural extravagance of the architecture could only be glimpsed through the villa's expansive windows   ~ Maser, the Veneto.

A mosaic design accents the richly adorned paved paths ~ André Heller Botanic Garden

Gardone, Lago di Garda

Austere hedging and meticulous pebble pathways surround a private villa garden in Bardolino, Italy   ~  Lago di Garda

... while here, in Alice's Garden the Red Cestrum ~ Cestrum newellii is a top performer. 

Blooming nearly year-long, it's a shrubby specimen that invites hummingbirds, bees and butterflies to the waxy red flower clusters!

  

Visions of Venice

Decorative metalwork .. Peggy Guggenheim Museum gateway.

When in Venice .. If  you find yourself yearning to leave the crowds behind, continue strolling along the canal, away from the tourists that gather round St. Mark's ...

... and eventually you'll come to the expansive public parklands - the Giardini at the eastern edge of the city. This green space was quiet during my June sojourn, but I believe the Architecture Biennale is taking place there this Fall.

A favorite meal ~ Misto alla Griglia

Nothing is more exciting for a lover of fine food than happening upon an inviting cafe, especially when the skies have opened to rain down on me.  The small bar/restaurant where I enjoyed this meal was very much off-the-beaten path, a spot I wouldn't have found had I not been searching for a 'secret garden' my B&B host told me about.

Though the garden was locked when I finally located it, the cafe provided a cozy table where we sipped a lovely white wine from the Veneto region, accompanied by the freshly prepared meal of roasted vegetables ~ a highlight of my day.

After leaving Venice to tour Lago di Garda for a week or so, we had returned to Venice to stay in a hotel in the Castello sestiere. [Our initial stay had been at a B&B in the Cannaregio.]

A yearning to get to know a city more intimately always motivates my journeys. As in choosing to walk away from Venice's popular tourist attractions in an attempt to discover the city of the modern-day Venetian. 

Venice is not a city to dash into and out of, in my opinion. It is no longer the city I visited years ago, but it remains a unique destination. A glistening city at twilight; entrancing if you allow a languid approach to exploring its rare wonders. 

Veneto Vista - Italian Gardens

One of the hauntingly romantic landscapes visited during my sojourn in Italy's Veneto region:

Villa Arvedi allowed me to experience the hospitality of a contemporary setting that remains true to 

the sophistication and elegance of another era.

To read more, visit AlicesGardenTravelBuzz.com

Dreaming of Italy .. Lago di Garda

All the months of planning that go into travel abroad...

and all too soon the trip is over. 

Thankfully, the memories remain vivid in my mind's eye. At times, a flashback will trigger the excitement of a beautiful vista, as when I first glimpsed the magnificent Dolomites towering above Riva del Garda. Or I'll be going about my usual activities, and suddenly the day comes alive with the sensory recollections of a rainy summer day exploring Lake Garda.

The Peggy Guggenheim Collection ... a revelation!

Art lovers swoon over the masterpieces housed in the stunning white palace on Venice's Grand Canal. I found it difficult to pull myself away from this fascinating museum, a setting that resonates with the imagined voices of the artists and literary figures who visited Peggy's famous gatherings.

Reviewing my photos, I'll find a simple vignette brings to mind a treasured experience. Like when I gazed upon a patch of colorful poppies while trekking through the Roman Ruins in the town of Sirmione: One of Lake Garda's most picturesque towns, located on a peninsula that juts into the southern end of the lake.

Just strolling the streets of Bardolino was a joy, taking in the sights and aromas of the lively, bustling community. Bardolino served to anchor our time on Lago di Garda, a perfect base to take ferries that criss-cross the lake, or comfortable bus rides, following the coastline from one fascinating village to another.

Garden Travel .. Venice, Italy

My travels in Italy continue ... 

You're invited to visit & ... 'Like'

http://www.facebook.com/alicesgardentravelbuzz

To discover beautiful Italian garden destinations visit:

https://www.alicesgardentravelbuzz.com/

Gardone, Italy - André Heller Botanic Garden

An entrancing surprise during my sojourn in Northern Italy:

After an early-morning ferry across Lake Garda from my hotel in Bardolino, on the eastern side, I set my sights on the lovely town of Gardone Riviera. 

Strolling up the hill from the waterfront, I dodged raindrops in anticipation of my

visit to the André Heller Botanic Garden.

The Keith Haring sculpture is one of the iconic installations among countless artworks in the garden,

set amidst lavish plantings & paths enlivened by ebullient water features.

* Visit Alice's Garden Travel Buzz to read more. *

The magnificent Dolomites loom above the town of Riva del Garda,

located at the northern edge of the Lake Garda.

Turning Towards Torcello

One of the great surprises of my Italian sojourn:

Historic Torcello, barely populated, yet at one time, the beating heart of the Veneto.

Some 20 people now occupy this island in the Venetian lagoon where 10,000 or more once thrived. 

Wild meadows and fenced areas under cultivation caught my eye,

along with Ristorante Villa 600, where we stopped to sip an afternoon 'Spritz' in the peaceful gardens.

Ponte del diavolo / Photo: Wikipedia

The ancient bridge found on Torcello is a popular place for tourist shutterbugs to pose.

The only other bridge of its kind in the region is Ponte Chiodo,

leading directly to the door of the Ponte Chiodo Guest House, where I was welcomed upon arrival in Venice.

Opulent Epoch .. Wordless in Italy

Hadrian's Villa

Dreaming of Italy....

Naughty Neptune! Villa Lante Reprise

Villa Lante Parterre : Fontana dei Mori

Photo © Alice Joyce

When I wrote my contributions to the book, 1001 Gardens You Must See Before You Die, I did not have the pleasure of writing the entry for Villa Lante.

Still, every so often I feel the urge to reprise this magnificent setting when I'm caught up in the reverie of touring Italy to visit gardens. I hope you'll enjoy these glimpses of an Italian gem, located near Viterbo in Lazio Province, not terribly far from Rome.

Text  and Photos © Alice Joyce - All rights reserved

Ninfa .. Flora and Fauna of a Protected Landscape

Ninfa ... Conservation of a Protected Landscape

Safe harbor for 132 species of birds, pure lake waters,

and a Pontine marshland habitat.

Ninfa's 100,000-hectare property is accorded utmost respect by the governing Roffredo Caetani Foundation & curator, Lauro Marchetti. With the dawn of the 21st century, to care for the land is a primary consideration: Ninfa's historic landscape of treasured flora and fauna is in many ways unique. Thankfully, I had planned well in advance to visit Ninfa, and it was my good fortune to meet Dirrettore Marchetti and his charming wife, Stella.

The rain began, then stopped, then fell lightly once again as I strolled through the organically maintained gardens with Signora Marchetti.

Located 20 km from the sea, Ninfa is situated at the base of the Lepini Mountains, and therefore protected from harsh winds. The gardens emerge as an idyllic natural setting. Yet, at the same time, the lush plantings are a resonant reminder of of the loving touch and prescient planning of the keen-sighted garden-makers of the past.

The restored castle tower overlooks magnificent architectural evergreen pines, playing off flowering cherries, aristocratic magnolias, and the contorted limbs of mature maples. The atmosphere felt blessed as we explored pathways, coming upon long vistas of gently meandering streams flanked by an alliance of roses and rhododendrons, self-sown mahonia, and the lavish foliage of gunnera.

Ninfa: Small Books of Great Gardens

Text by Lauro Marchetti and Esme Howard - Photos by Claire de Virieu

The eye alights upon a banana grove in a sun-drenched clearing:

A microclimate warmed by venerable stone walls and ruined towers.

An appointment called the Marchettis to Rome, but before they departed. I had the opportunity to talk with Lauro Marchetti about a project to extend the gardens, creating a spacious nature reserve for the abundant wildlife.

As I proceeded to walk alone, I found myself wishing that I were a resident nymph,

able to spend intimate hours on the splendid property...

cavorting with hedgehogs, or romping through the spring-fed bamboo forest.

Conservation of Ninfa's unique gardens and vast landscape is of great concern.

Photos and Text Copyright © Alice Joyce

Protected by Copyscape: Do Not Copy

Link to Part II: Enchanting Ninfa

Ninfa opens to the public on a limited basis, offering guided tours.

Enchanting Ninfa .. the Saga Continues

Ninfa - In a few words, an enchanted landscape.

A place where gardens rise up on the site of a once-prominent 8th-century town. Documentation traces Ninfa to the 1st century, when Pliny wrote of a temple constructed in homage to mythical nymphs: Nymphs known to dwell in Ninfa's pristine lake, the cold waters flowing from an alpine mountain source.

In 1297 Pope Bonifaciio VIII gifted Ninfa to a relative, Pietro Caetani. Yet, by the late 1300s,

warring factions overran the thriving Medieval town, leaving it in ruins.

Look to The English Garden Abroad, should you wish to learn more about the making of Ninfa's gardens.

In the well-researched book, Charles Quest-Ritson follows the shaping of the present-day gardens by the creators: Three generations of the Caetani family responsible for the landscape one sees today. In particular, three ladies of English and American ancestry - laudable, artistic figures who contributed to the gardenscape. A breathtaking naturalism envelops the visitor to Ninfa. At every turn, the eye rests upon lush greenery,

or plentiful vistas of fresh water.

The wistful romanticism of ancient stone walls is not easily captured in words;

the stone surfaces a honey-hued canvas for fading frescoes.

Introducing: Ninfa and Sermoneta

Part 3 to follow ....

Garden Idyll in Italy .. Sermoneta Overlooking Ninfa

Highlights from my garden idyll in Italy appeared on Bay Area Tendrils in 2009 

Villa Lante

Hadrian's Villa

and the Sacred Wood of Bomarzo

however ... to write about Ninfa is another story.

With a history spanning the first century and extending to a uniquely vibrant landscape of the present day,

the magical setting of Ninfa exacts a thoughtfully rendered chronicle.

And so, I shall be offering glimpses of the setting and its rich history.

Hotel Principe Serrone - Sermoneta, Italy 

Protected by Copyscape: © Alice Joyce

Sermoneta 

A delightfully out-of-the-way Medieval hill town: the nearest train station is in the city of Latina,

capital of the province of Lazio; some 40 miles south of Roma. 

Gazing out from my window at Hotel Principe Serrone, 

I could see Ninfa's ancient towers in the valley beyond.

Link to:

Part II - Enchanting Ninfa

Italian Gardens: Hadrian's Villa

Villa Adriana - Hadrian's Villa

Outside Rome, a bit southwest of the town of Tivoli, the monumental Roman ruins of Villa Adriana stand as a testament to the ambitions and fancies of Emperor Hadrian.

Based upon Hadrian's design and built in the 2nd century A.D., the villa site presents a remarkable fusion of ostentatious architecture - a vast complex of buildings and thermal baths - cradled within hundreds of acres of green terrain.

Used as the Emperor's retreat, the once impeccable garden settings demonstrate the influences of Greek and Egyptian art, especially the preserved area of the Canopus; its name taken from an Egyptian city. Set off by magnificent statuary and fountains, the central feature - a long reflecting pool, is watched over by caryatids - figures copied from the Athenian temple of Erechteion, and linked to the god Sarapis.

Look for Italian Gardens on Alice's Garden Travel Buzz